In 1995, when the World-Wide Web was still new, I led the creation of the rec.autos Chrysler newsgroup. Part of that effort was writing an FAQ, or Frequently Asked/Answered Questions list, hosted by an automated MIT system which automatically posted the FAQ every two weeks. Recently, to preserve it, I updated the FAQ (trying to keep its original flavor), made it machine-readable, and brought it here, to motales.com. I won’t say it’s error and bug free; I will say it’s pretty close to what it was, warts and all.
— David Zatz, creator of rec.autos.makers.chrysler
The last official version of part 1 (there were originally six parts) was modified on 9/5/2018. The form at Allpar is no longer functional.
In this FAQ, "Chrysler" refers to the full Chrysler Corporation or Chrysler Group (Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth, DeSoto, Eagle, Simca, Rootes Group, Maxwell, Sunbeam, Singer, Hillman, Humber, AMC, etc). "Mopars" (slang) generally refers to cars made by the core American brands, while some call AMC and such "adopted Mopars." Legally, Mopar is the trademarked name for Chrysler's parts brand.
DISCLAIMER: The author and contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information or opinions contained herein. Some of the information is opinion rather than fact. Information below may be reproduced in any way IF credit is given to the writers and maintainer; and it is not published in book or magazine form without the prior written permission of the maintainer; that the maintainer receives, without asking, a free copy of the final material; and that no changes are made (except for formatting) without the permission of the maintainer (David Zatz).
Remember, the FAQ was meant as something people would read before posting in the rec.autos.makers.chrysler newsgroup. At least one of these sections is only reproduced out of historical interest.
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BEFORE POSTING WITH COMPLAINTS/QUESTIONS
1. Check the FAQ. Most answers are there.
2. Please don't post messages like "this broke and I will speak to the dealer about it sometime." Go to the dealer first; if they cannot fix it, and it is not in the FAQ, THEN go to the newsgroup.
3. If you are having problems with Chrysler, and have not yet read the relevant FAQ section, please do so. At least call them (800-992-1997).
4. If you are having problems with Chrysler and are angry and bitter at them, an angry message or two is fine. But you won't help anyone by going overboard.
Note: this is not just valid for newsgroups but for automotive forums.
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HOW TO DEAL WITH CHRYSLER CORP. [Written before 1998]
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(Note: Thanks to Dan Adams for his help with parts of this)
* The order in which you should deal with a problem is something like this:
1. Speak politely but assertively with the service writer.
2. Ask to go for a ride with the mechanic and discuss relevant issues
with them.
3. Service manager.
4. Call the company.
5. Write to the company.
6. Deal with the local zone (voluntary "lemon law" buyback negotiations if applicable)
7. Arbitration / Consumer Affairs / Attorney General if applicable
AND needed.
[Editor's note: The following was, again, originally written in 1994 and last updated in 2018.]
* Be *polite* and *calm* but assertive at all times. Do not take"no" for an answer but do *not* act angry or make threats. Chrysler often helps, even out of warranty, but they need to be gently pushed; and some Chrysler employees have the strange impression that dealers are wonderful and honest while most customers are liars. The Customer Center reps are often not experts, so elaboration may help. If all else fails, call back and speak to someone else. Always take down their name for your reference!
* Know what you're talking about. Check the FAQ, TSBs, your computer codes, and recalls before you visit the dealer with a problem.
* Don't expect Chrysler to change something because it's listed in a TSB (technical service bulletin). TSBs describe solutions to problems which may not apply to your car; they are *not* recalls, though Chrysler often fixes cars out of warranty if there is a known problem and TSB on it.
* Even if you are in an adversarial relationship, act in a friendly, nonthreatening, non-adversarial manner. It works better and makes both parties less angry.
* Daniel Adams writes: Chrysler corporate headquarters does tend to back the field reps but a good service writer can get to them and help you more than you would believe. Don't take your frustration out on the service writers, they carry quite a bit of pull behind the scenes. [And sometimes it helps to know who the good service writers are.]
* Don't take "no" for an answer. Call Chrysler at 800-992-1997 from a pay phone if you have to. They will call the dealer. Often, the dealer will discover they don't need to charge you or keep your car after all!
* If your dealer keeps fixing the same thing over and over again, get another dealer. Or try the newsgroup. Or write to the CEO. The letter will get to someone in dealer relations or customer service, which has been working well to take care of issues quickly. [last updated 2016; may no longer be valid]
* If your dealer treats you badly, lies to you, refuses to do the work, etc., get another dealer.
* Consider service BEFORE buying the car when you choose a dealer. Also consider asking the salesman who the best service writer is, and only using that service writer. If you always use the same service writer, he will get to know you and you may slowly start to find that you are getting the best mechanics. Also, he will recognize you if you come back often.
* It does help to have oil changes and other maintenance done by the dealer, because you will establish a closer relationship with the service writers, and also, soemtimes, because they are more likely to actually use the right parts and fluids.
* If you have a continuing problem, speak to the people at the Customer Center. You may need to deal with a zone rep, but we recommend that you write to the Auburn Hills headquarters first. Some reps are good. Others are useless. There have been many reports that the reps in some areas are overly sensitive and defensive. (See message about service writers above -- they can often get action where ordinary mortals cannot).
* Note: if your dealer or a subcontractor for your dealer should crash your car (as Chrysler of Paramus, now part of DCH, did to my car), immediately ask a lawyer what your options are. Examine the damage personally before they have a chance to cover it up. Do not "take their word for it." In this case restitution may be more than a quick bang-and-repaint. Some shops will do the right thing, but if you have the kind of shop that won't (as I did), it is important that you immediately deal with the situation and do not provide an opportunity for lingering disputes.
****** NON-CHRYSLER SOLUTIONS ****** (after internal solutions fail)
* Contact your local consumer affairs department. Note: Will not work in states with a predominantly anti-government attitude.
1. File an official lemon law complaint with your state. This will get their attention and help negotiation. You can usually get a better deal through negotiation than in court. Hiring a lemon law specialist may help - good ones will offer to negotiate *first.*
2. Go through the Customer Arbitration Board. Results with this group have been mixed.
* Most lawyers don't know the first thing about lemon law! A good one will know the people at the zone office and will try to talk nice to them to solve the problem. If negotiation is not their first move, they are not the right lawyer.
* Your chances of getting cash are slim. You will usually get a credit (buy-back). You will not usually get all of your money back. Chrysler follows state laws; most impose a penalty on each mile of use before the first lemon-type complaint.
* Go through the latest TSBs again. Something new might have come up.
*Whenever your dealer lies to you or is too incompetent, send a letter to Dealer Agreements or the Customer Center (current addresses are on-line and are in your owner's manual if your car is new enough to be under warranty).
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WHAT SHOULD I DO IF I HAVE THE FOLLOWING CAR/ENGINE?
Carbureted V-8/slant six engines
-- clean the crankcase inlet air filter
-- keep a spare ballast resistor in your glove compartment if you have electronic ignition
-- make sure the stove and damper (vacuum-powered valve) are working for cold weather starts
-- check/replace vacuum tubes as needed (often neglected)
-- make sure float level is adjusted
-- lubricate the distributor oil pad periodically with 1-2 drops of engine oil
-- on older engines, valves must be manually adjusted from time to time
Any engine with a distributor ---
-- Problems may be caused by low quality rotor or distributor cap.
**** CHRYSLER ENGINES 1966-2022********
4 cylinders
1.3 (FCA joint design) - turbo, Jeep Renegade and Compass, Fiats
1.4 (Neon-2.0-based joint venture) - BMW Mini
1.5 (Sunbeam) -- Cricket (British)
1.5 (FCA joint design) - turbo, Dodge Hornet, Alfa Romeo Tonale
1.6 (Peugeot) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
1.6 (Neon-2.0-based joint venture) - Mini, export Neons, Fiats (as e.TorQ)
1.7 (VW) -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo
1.8 (CC) -- Neons outside the US
1.8 (WE) -- World Engine - Caliber, more (2006+)
2.0 SOHC -- Neon
2.0 DOHC -- Neon, Sebring, Avenger, Talon, Stratus/Cirrus/Breeze
2.0 (WE) -- World Engine - Caliber, more (2006+)
2.0 GME / Hurricane - 2019 and newer cars, joint FCA design; 4xe in PHEV form
2.2 -- Omni, 024, Charger, Horizon, TC3, Turismo, Aries, Lancer, Reliant, Shadow, Sundance, 400, 600, Caravelle, Caravan, Voyager, LeBaron, Laser, Daytona, New Yorker, E-Class, Executive, Limousine (note: TBI and carb versions)
2.2 turbo -- LeBaron, New Yorker, Limousine, Laser, Daytona, Lancer, TC, 600, Shadow, Caravelle, Sundance, Omni, Charger, E-Class, Shelby (note: MPI)
2.2 DOHC turbo -- Spirit, Daytona (joint venture with Lotus)
2.2 DOHC turbo -- TC (joint venture with Maserati)
2.2 (Renault) -- Medallion
2.4 DOHC (CC) -- Cirrus/Stratus/Breeze, 1996+ minivans, PT
2.4 Turbo (CC) - PT GT, SRT-4, Mexican Stratus R/T
2.4 (WE) -- World Engine - Caliber, Compass, Patriot, more (2006+)
2.5 (CC) -- minivans, Aries, Reliant, Shadow, Sundance, Duster, 600, Lancer, Dynasty, Daytona, Spirit, Acclaim, LeBaron, Caravelle, Dakota (to 1995)
2.5 turbo (CC) -- minivans, Spirit, Acclaim, Shadow, Sundance, LeBaron, Daytona (Note: MPI)
2.5 (AMC) -- Wrangler, Cherokee, Premier, Dakota (96+)
2.6 (MMC) -- New Yorker, E-Class, Executive, Limousine, LeBaron, 400, 600, Aries, Reliant, Caravan, Voyager
----------------------------------
V-6:
2.5 (MMC) -- Sebring, Avenger, Cirrus, Stratus (based on 3.0)
2.7 LH series (1998-2001), Stratus/Sebring
3.0 (MMC) -- LeBaron, TC, minivans, New Yorker, Spirit, Dynasty, Daytona, Stealth, Shadow ES, Acclaim, Duster
3.0 (PRV) -- Premier, Monaco
3.0 "Pentastar" V6 (not used in North America)
3.2 LH series (1998+)
3.2 "Pentastar" V6 (Jeep Cherokee)
3.3 New Yorker, Dynasty, LH series, minivans
3.5 LH series (1998+), Prowler (steel and aluminum versions) -
Chrysler considers the aluminum version to be entirely new
3.6 "Pentastar" / "Phoenix" V6: Challenger, Charger, 300/300S/300C, minivans, 200, Durango, Grand Cherokee, Ram 1500, Cherokee, Wrangler, Gladiator; in heavily modified Ferrari form, Maserati Ghibli and Quattroporte
3.7: trucks and Jeeps, 2002-?
3.8: New Yorker Fifth Avenue, Wrangler, minivans, etc - bored 3.3
3.9: trucks (based on the 318) until 2002
4.0: enlarged, modified version of the 3.8 (minivans) not to be confused with 4.0 I-6
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The SLANT SIX (share basic design)
2.8 (170) -- Dart, Valiant, Lancer, Barracuda (Canada), A100, D100
3.3 (198) -- Barracuda, Challenger, Dart, Valiant, Duster, Scamp
3.7 (225)-- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Mirada, Diplomat, St. Regis, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite, Barracuda, Valiant, Duster, Scamp, Volare, Lancer, Australian Valiant series, multiple Dodge/Fargo trucks and commercial vans
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OTHER STRAIGHT SIXES
(flat head) - original type Power Wagon only
215 - Australian Valiants (Hemi design)
245 - Australian Valiants (Hemi design)
265 - Australian Valiants (Hemi design)
4.0 (AMC) -- Cherokee, Wagoneer, Wrangler, Grand Cherokee
4.2 (AMC) -- Jeeps and AMC cars (before 4.0)
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V-8s
4.5 (273) -- Dart, Valiant, Barracuda, Coronet, Belvedere, Satellite
4.7 -- 1999 Grand Cherokee, Charger R/T (CNG), Ram 1500
5.2 (318) -- Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, St. Regis, Magnum, Mirada, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, VIP, Belvedere, Satellite, Road Runner, Barracuda, Valiant, Scamp, Duster,
Volare, Cordoba, LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, Gran Fury,
Imperial, Grand Cherokee, Grand Wagoneer, Diplomat, Demon, pickups and SUVs thru 2001.
5.6 (340) -- Charger, Challenger, Dart, Barracuda, Duster, Road Runner, Ramcharger
5.7 Hemi (345) -- Pickups, Charger, Challenger, Magnum, 300C, Grand Cherokee, Durango, Wagoneer
5.9 (360) -- LeBaron, Newport, New Yorker, 300, Cordoba, Diplomat,
Polara, Monaco, Challenger, Dart, Aspen, Fury, Gran Fury,
Barracuda, Duster, St. Regis, pickups and SUVs thru 2002.
5.9 (361) -- Coronet, Charger, Belvedere, trucks
5.9 (360-AMC) -- Wagoneer, Grand Wagoneer, AMC cars
6.1 Hemi - SRT8 models pre 2011
6.2 -- Supercharged Hemi ("Hellcat "): Charger, Challenger, Grand Cherokee, Ram 1500 TRX
6.3 (383)-- Newport, 300, Town & Country, Polara, Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Challenger, Dart, Fury, Belvedere, Satellite, Road
Runner, Barracuda, Magnum
6.4 (392) Hemi - SRT8 models 2011+
6.6 (400) -- Newport, New Yorker, Town & Country, Monaco, Fury, Road Runner, Gran Fury, Charger, maybe Cordoba, Magnum, trucks, RVs
7.0 (426, Hemi & Wedge) -- Belvedere, Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda, Challenger, Charger, Coronet, Daytona, Superbird
7.2 (440) -- Newport, New Yorker, 300, Town & Country, Imperial, Polara,
Monaco, Coronet, Charger, Challenger, Fury, VIP, Belvedere, Road Runner, GTX, Barracuda, Daytona, Superbird, trucks, RVs
----------------------------------
8.0 V-10 -- Viper, Ram trucks (two versions, fairly different)
Truck version (cast iron) ended in 2002.
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DIESELS
1.6 I-4: Perkins (European production cars, retrofits)
1.9 I-4: Detroit Diesel/VM engine, used in export cars
2.1 I-4: Renault, used in export Cherokee
2.5 I-4: VM engine, used in export cars, minivans, Jeeps
2.7 I-5: Mercedes engine, export Grand Cherokees
2.8 I-4: VM engine, used in export cars, minivans, Jeeps
3.0 I-4: Fiat engine, used in early Ram ProMaster
3.0 V-6: VM (Grand Cherokee, Ram 1500, export cars)
3.0 V6: Mercedes (Grand Cherokee, Ram 1500, Sprinter)
3.1: I-5 Detroit Diesel/VM (export Jeeps)
4.0: Mitsubishi 6DR5, used 1978-? in trucks
5.9 I-6: Cummins (trucks, 1989-)
6.7 I-6: Cummins (trucks, replaced 5.9)
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CAR BODY TYPES
Because the list of car body types was getting rather confusing we have taken this out of the FAQ.
We refer you instead to full, informative lists of cars by body type at:
https://www.motales.com/cars/rwd-codes.php (rear drive cars)
http://www.allpar.com/model/fwdbodies.html (front drive).
Books by MoTales writer David Zatz
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